Stonesetting is a secure setting art or attach gems to jewelry.
Video Stonesetting
Cabochon and facet
There are two common types of gems cutting: cabochon and facet. Cabochons are smooth, often vaulted, with flat backs. Agate and turquoise are usually cut in this way, but precious stones like rubies, emeralds and sapphires are also possible. Many stones like star sapphires and moon stones should be cut in this way to see the effect of the stones in them.
Another type of stone is generally termed a facet, in which the stone has the overall shape of a modern modern diamond, with a thin edge, called a corset, the top sloping into the so-called crown, and the bottom tilting into what is called a pavilion. In the case of a cabochon stone, the side of the stone is usually cut at a shallow angle, so when the bezel is pushed over a stone that allows its angle to hold the stone in place and keep it firm. In the case of voluminous stones, shallow grooves are cut to the side of the bezel where the stone corset is placed, and then the metal is pushed upward, holding the stone in place. Cabochons can also be arranged into various types of branch arrangements, but the idea is the same - it is the branch that passes through the corner of the rock that creates the pressure that holds the stone in place.
Just as the angle of the sides of the cabochon creates pressure to hold the stone in place, so there is a principle underlying the arrangement of the stones. If one looks at a side view of a round diamond, for example, one will see that there is an outer edge, called a corset, and the upper corner rises from there, and the lower corners descends from there. Varied stones are set by "pinching" the angle with metal. If you imagine holding a corset with your thumb and forefinger with both hands, it describes it pretty well. All styles of side stone arrangement use this concept in one way or another.
Maps Stonesetting
Rock type boiling
There are thousands of styles variations, but there are several basic types:
Bezel Settings
The earliest known technique for attaching stones to jewelry is the setting of the bezel. The frame is a metal strip that is bent into the shape and size of the stone and then soldered onto the jewelry. Then the stone is inserted into the bezel and the metal is rubbed on the rock, holding it in place. This method works well for cabochon or side stone.
Prong Settings
Branch arrangement is the simplest and most common type of arrangement, mainly because it uses the least amount of metal to hold a rock, so it flaunts it for its best advantage. In general these are just a few cables, called branches, of a certain size and shape, arranged in shape and size to hold the stones supplied, and remain essentially. Then an exact size thorn, used to cut what is known as a "bearing", which is a notch corresponding to the corners of the stone. The most commonly used spines are called bur "bur" which is tilted and sized for diamond setting work. The bearing is cut equally to all branches and at the same height above the base. Then the stone is inserted so that it enters all the pads, the pliers or pusher is used to bend the fork gently over the stone crown, and the fork ends are cut with snips, inserted to the same height. on a rock, and finished. Usually a "cup of thorns" is used to provide a nice rounded tip. Spiked cup spheres with teeth on the inside, to make rounded edges on wires and forks. There are many variations of branch settings including only two branches, 4 common branches or up to 24 or more with many variations involving the decoration, size and shape of the fork itself, and how they are repaired or used in jewelry. But the method of setting is generally the same for all of them, no matter how many branches there are.
Channel settings
Channel arrangement is a method in which a stone is suspended between two bars or a strip of metal, called a channel. Often when arranging small stones and bars in line with the design it is called channel setting, and when the bar crosses the design line, it is called the bar set. The idea is the same. Channels are some variations of the "U" shape, with two sides and the bottom. The sides are made slightly narrower than the width of stone or stone to be arranged, and then, using the same bur as in a branch arrangement, a small notch, again called a pad, is cut into each wall. The stone is placed in the curve, and the metal above it is pressed down, tightening the stone in place. The proper way to set up channels is to cut the notches for each stone, but for cheaper production jobs sometimes the grooves are cut along each channel. Also, because the metal can be very stiff and strong, this is a situation where a reciprocal hammer, which is like a jackhammer but a jewelry-sized, might be used to crash into metal, as it can be difficult to do by hand. Then, as always, the metal is put down and finished, and the inner edges near the stones are cleaned and straightened as necessary. Like all jewelers, there are many variations of channel work. Sometimes the walls will be raised - sometimes the center stone will be installed between two high-rise bars of the base ring - or the channel may be simply cut directly onto some surfaces, making the stones flat with metal. This is still the channel setting.
Bead settings
Bead setting is a generic term for arranging stones directly into metal using gravers, also called burin, which is essentially a small chisel. The holes are drilled directly onto the metal surface, and then the spiny balls are used to create a concave depression only the size of a stone. Some setters will set the stone into a concave depression, and some will use a thorn hart to cut the pads around the edges. Then a stone is inserted into the chamber, and a grave or burin is used to lift and push a little metal into and over the edge of the rock. Then the bead tool, which is merely a steel rod with a concave dimple to its tip, is pushed onto the metal part, rounds and softens it, pushes it firmly to the rock, and creates a "bead". That is an important method, but there are many types of settings that use this technique. When many stones are arranged in this very close fashion, about 1 millimeter apart, covering the surface, called "pavÃÆ' Ã… ©" - from France to paved or blinded. When a long line carved into the metal goes up to each bead, it is a "star set", because of the look. Other common uses are called "bead and bright", "grain arrangements" or "threading" in Europe, and other names at any given time. This is when, once the stone is set as described above, the background metal around the stone is cut, usually in geometric shape. In the end what is left is a stone with four beads in the shape of a box that is lowered with the surrounding periphery. Often this is a row of stones, so it will be long shaped with raised edges and rows of rocks and beads in the middle. This type of arrangement is still commonly used, but it is very common in the early to mid-20th century.
Blob settings
The boring settings, sometimes also referred to as flush settings, shooting settings, or gypsy settings (The term gypsy setting is used less frequently these days because the word gypsy is seen as insulting) is similar to a manic setting, but once a stone is inserted into space, instead of using the engraver to lift the beads, the polishing tool is used to push the metal around the rock. The stone will be flat with the surface, with the edges rubbed or rubbed around it. This type of arrangement has a long history but gets a revival in contemporary jewelry. Sometimes the metal finishes using sandblasting, because it exhibits works very well.
References
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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