Reinhold Messner

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Reinhold Messner ( German pronunciation: ['? a? nh? lt' m? sn? ] born September 17, 1944) is an Italian mountaineer, adventurer, explorer and writer from the South Tyrol province of Italy, Bilingual.

He made the first solo climb of Mount Everest, Everest's first ascent without additional oxygen, along with Peter Habeler, and was the first climber to rise to all fourteen peaks over 8,000 meters (26,000 feet) above sea level. He was also the first person to cross Antarctica and Greenland without a snowmobile or dog sled. Next, he crossed the Gobi Desert alone. Messner also published over 80 books on his experience as a climber and explorer. In 2018 he received together with Krzysztof Wielicki Princess of Asturias Award in the Sports category.

Video Reinhold Messner

Biography

Born in Brixen (Bressanone) in the Italian province of South Tyrol, Messner grew up in VillnÃÆ'¶ÃÆ'Ÿ and spent his early years climbing in the Alps and fell in love with the Dolomites. His father, Josef Messner, was a teacher. He is also very strict and sometimes heavy with Reinhold. Josef led Reinhold to his first meeting at the age of five. Reinhold has eight brothers and one sister; he then rides with his brother GÃÆ'¼nther and makes the Arctic cross with his brother Hubert.

When Reinhold was 13 years old, he started climbing with his brother GÃÆ'¼nther, age 11. By the time Reinhold and GÃÆ'¼nther were in their early twenties, they were among the best climbers in Europe.

Since the 1960s, Messner, inspired by Hermann Buhl, is one of the first and most enthusiastic supporters of alpine climbing in the Himalayas, which consists of climbing with very light equipment and minimal external help. Messner considers the usual expeditionary style ("siege tactics") to disrespect nature and mountains.

The main climb of the first Himalayas Messner in 1970, the face of Rupal Nanga Parbat that has not been heard, turned out to be a tragic success. Both he and his brother GÃÆ'¼nther reached the top, but GÃÆ'¼nther died two days later when Diamir's face dropped. Reinhold lost six toes, which had become frostbite during the ascent and needed amputation. Reinhold was strongly criticized for continuing this ascent with the less experienced GÃÆ'¼nther. Film 2010 Nanga Parbat by Joseph Vilsmaier is based on his explanation of the event.

While Messner and Peter Habeler were noted for rapid climbs in the Eiger North Wall Alps, the standard route (10 hours) and Les Droites (8 hours), 1975 Gasherbrum I first climb of the new route takes three days. This has never happened at the time.

In the 1970s, Messner championed the cause of Mount Everest's rise without additional oxygen, saying that he would do it "in a fair way" or not at all. In 1978, he reached the summit of Everest with Habeler. This is the first time anyone has a high level without oxygen and Messner and Habeler who prove what doctors, specialists and mountain climbers can not do. He repeated that feat, without Habeler, from the Tibetan side in 1980, during the rainy season. This is Everest's first solo meeting.

In 1978, he made a solo ascent of Diamir's face from Nanga Parbat. In 1986, Messner became the first to complete all fourteen eight thousand (peaks over 8,000 meters above sea level). Messner has crossed Antarctica by skiing, along with fellow explorer Arved Fuchs. He has written over 60 books about his experience, a quarter has been translated. She was featured in the 1984 Wonders of the Dark Glow of the Mountains by Werner Herzog.

Messner today runs a diversified business related to his mountain climbing skills. From 1999 to 2004, he held political office as Member of the European Parliament for the Italian Green Party (Federazione dei Verdi). He is also among the founders of Wilderness Mountain, an international NGO dedicated to protecting mountains around the world.

In 2004 he completed an expedition of 2,000 kilometers (1,200 million) through the Gobi desert. He now mainly devotes himself to Messner Mountain Museum, where he is the founder.

Maps Reinhold Messner

Expedition

Up to 1970

By 1970, Reinhold Messner had made a name for himself primarily through his achievements in the Alps. Between 1960 and 1964, he led over 500 climbs, mostly in the Dolomites. In 1965, he boarded a new route direttissima in the northern part of Ortler's face. A year later, he boarded the Walker Spur in Grandes Jorasses and rode the Rocchetta Alta at Bosconero. In 1967 he made the first ascent to the northeast face AgnÃÆ' Â © r and climbed the first winter north face AgnÃÆ' Â © r and the northern face of the Furchetta.

In 1968 he reached the first position further: the central pillar of Heiligkreuzkofel and the southern face directly from Marmolada. In the following year, Messner joined the Andes expedition, where he succeeded, along with Peter Habeler, in making the first ascent of eastern Yerupaja facing the top of the hill and, a few days later, the first ascent of 6,121 Jericho Chico the meter high also made the ascent first solo of the north face of the Droites, the Philipp-Flamm intersection at Civetta and the south side of Marmolata di Rocca. As a result of his achievements, Messner won a reputation as one of the best climbers in Europe. So, in 1970, he was invited to join the Himalayan expedition. In light of his later successes, 1970 can be regarded as one of the turning points in Messner's life.

Climb eight thousand after 1970

Reinhold Messner was the first to climb all fourteen eight thousand in the world and without additional oxygen. The climb is also among the first 20 climbs for each mountain individually. Specifically, these are:

Nanga Parbat

Reinhold Messner took a total of five expeditions to Nanga Parbat. In 1970 and 1978 he reached the summit (in 1978 solo); in 1971, 1973 and 1977, he did not. In 1971 he was mainly looking for the remains of his brother.

Rupal Face 1970

In May and June 1970, Reinhold Messner took part in the Nanga Parbat South Face expedition led by Karl Herrligkoffer, whose goal was to climb the undeveloped Rupal Face, the tallest rock and ice face in the world. Brother Messner, GÃÆ'¼nther, was also a member of the team. On the morning of June 27, Messner argued that the weather would deteriorate rapidly, and depart alone from the last highland camp. Strangely his brother climbed after him and caught him before the summit. By late afternoon, the two had reached the top of the mountain and had to set up emergency bivouve shelters without tents, sleeping bags and stoves because darkness was approaching.

The events that have occurred have been the subject of many years of legal action and disputes between former members of the expedition, and still have not been resolved. What is known now is that Reinhold and GÃÆ'¼nther Messner descend to Diamir Face, thus reaching the first Nanga Parbat crossing (and the second crossing of eight-thousander after Mount Everest in 1963). Reinhold arrived in the valley six days later with severe frostbite, but survived. His brother, GÃÆ'¼nther, but died at Diamir Face - according to Reinhold Messner on the same lineage, where they became farther apart from each other. As a result, the exact time, place and cause of death is unknown. Messner claims his brother has been swept away by an avalanche.

In the early years immediately after the expedition, there were disputes and lawsuits between Messner and the expedition leader, Karl-Maria Herrligkoffer. After a quarter of a century of peace, disputes again erupted in October 2001, when Messner filed a shocking allegation against another member of the team for failing to come to their aid. Other team members consistently stated that Reinhold Messner had informed them of his idea of ​​crossing the mountain before leaving for the summit. Messner himself asserted, however, that he made a spontaneous decision to get down to Face Diamir with his brother for security reasons. A number of new books - by Max von Kienlin, Hans Saler, Ralf-Peter MÃÆ'¤rtin, and Reinhold Messner - sparked disputes (assuming and personal attacks) and leading to further trials.

In June 2005, after an unusual heat wave on the mountain, his brother's body was found at Diamir Face, which apparently supported Messner's account of how GÃÆ'¼nther died.

The drama turned into Nanga Parbat film (2010) by Joseph Vilsmaier, based on the memories of Reinhold Messner and without the participation of other former expedition members. Released in January 2010 at the cinema, the film was criticized by other members of the team as it only told one side of the story.

Due to severe frostbite, especially in his legs - six toes were amputated - Messner could not climb well on a rock after a 1970 expedition. Therefore he turned his attention to a higher mountain, where there was more ice.

Ascend Solo 1978

After three failed expeditions, Reinhold Messner reached the top of the Nanga Parbat again through Diamir Face on 9 August 1978.

Manaslu

In 1972, Messner managed to climb up Manaslu on what was then the face of an unknown mountain south, which was not even a picture. From the last highland camp he climbed with Frank JÃÆ'¤ger, who turned before reaching the summit. Shortly after Messner reached the top, the weather changed and the fog was thick and snow fell. Initially Messner got lost on the way down, but later found his way back to the camp, â € Gasherbrum I

Gasherbrum Ascent I saw for the first time a mountain climbing expedition successfully scaled eight-thousander using an alpine-style climb. Until then, all fourteen peaks as high as 8000 meters have been summed up in expedition style, although Hermann Buhl previously advocated a "Western Alps Style" (similar to "capsule" style, with smaller groups relying on minimal fixed ropes). Together with Peter Habeler, Messner succeeded in making the second ascent of Gasherbrum I on 10 August 1975, becoming the first person to have climbed three eight thousand in a year.

Messner peaked again in 1984, this time along with Hans Kammerlander. This was achieved as part of a double climb where, for the first time, two eight-thousander peaks (Gasherbrum I and II) go up without returning to the base camp. Again, this is done in alpine style, ie without pre-location stores.

Mount Everest

On May 8, 1978, Reinhold Messner stood with Peter Habeler on the summit of Mount Everest; the first person known to climb Everest without the use of supplemental oxygen. Before the ascent is debated whether this is possible at all. Messner and Habeler were members of an expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz along the southeast ridge to the summit. Also on this expedition was Reinhard Karl, the first German to reach the top, albeit with the help of supplemental oxygen.

Two years later, on August 20, 1980, Messner again stood on top of the highest mountain in the world. This time too, the climb is made without additional oxygen. To climb this solo, he chose the northeastern ridge to the summit, where he crossed over North Kol on the North Face to Norton Couloir and became the first person to climb through a steep cliff to the summit. Messner decided spontaneously during the ascent to use this route to cross the open northeast ridge. Prior to this solo ascent, he had not yet set up camp on the mountain.

K2

For 1979, Messner plans to climb K2 on a new direct route through South Face, which he calls the "Magic Path". Led by Messner, a small expedition consists of six climbers: Italian Alessandro Gogna, Friedl Mutschlechner and Renato Casarotto; the Austrian, Robert Schauer; and German Michael Dacher, journalist, Jochen HÃÆ'¶lzgen, and doctor Ursula Grether, who was injured during the approach and had to be taken to Askole by Messner and Mutschlechner. Due to the avalanche danger in the original route and the time lost on the approach, they decided to climb through the Abruzzi Spur. The route is equipped with a fixed rope and high altitude camp, but no transport equipment ( HochtrÃÆ'¤ger ) or bottled oxygen is used. On July 12, Messner and Dacher reached the top; then the weather deteriorated and efforts by other members of the party failed.

Shishapangma

During his stay in Tibet as part of his Everest solo effort, Messner got a chance to explore Shishapangma. A year later, Messner, with Friedel Mutschlechner, Oswald Oelz and Gerd Baur, set up a base camp on the north side of the eight-thousander which is all over China. On May 28, Messner and Mutschlechner reached the top in very bad weather; part of the climb that involves mountain skiing.

Kangchenjunga

In 1982, Messner wanted to be the first climber to ever reach a scale of three eight thousand in a year. He plans to climb the first Kangchenjunga, before tackling Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak.

Messner has chosen a new variation of the route up to North Face. Because there was still a lot of snow on the expedition, Messner and Mutschlechner made very slow progress. In addition, the difficulty of climbing forced both mountaineers to use a fixed rope. Finally, on May 6, Messner, Mutschlechner and Ang Dorje stood on top. There, Mutschlechner suffered frostbite in his hands, and then his feet too. While bivouacking while down, the tents tore up Mutschlechner and Messner, and Messner also fell ill. He suffered an amoebic liver abscess, making him very weak. In the end he only made it back to base camp with the help of Mutschlechner.

Gasherbrum II

After climbing Kangchenjunga, Mutschlechner flies back to Europe because frostbite must be treated and Messner needs to rest. Thus the three mountains can not be climbed as planned. Messner recovered from an amoebic abscess at heart and then went to Gasherbrum II, but could not use the new route as planned. However, his associate peers, Sher Khan and Nazir Sabir, will not be strong enough. Nevertheless, the trio peaked on July 24th in a storm. During the ascent, Messner discovered the body of a previously lost Austrian climber, whom he buried two years later in G I - G II.

Wide Peak

Broad Peak was the third-third Dresdenander developed by Messner in 1982. At that time, he was the only person with permission to climb this mountain, but he found Jerzy Kukuczka and Wojciech Kurtyka, who had permission to climb K2 but used its geographical proximity to climbing Broad Peak illegally. In the initial descriptions of the climb, Messner was omitted to mention this meeting, but he called it a few years later. On August 2, Messner reunited with Nazir Sabir and Khan again at the summit. Three mountaineers have been urged and made for Broad Peak soon after the ascent of Gasherbrum II. The climb is done with variations of the normal route at the beginning.

Cho Oyu

In the winter of 1982/83, Messner attempted the first winter chase of Cho Oyu. He reached a height of about 7,500 meters, when a lot of snow forced him to return. This expedition was the first with Hans Kammerlander. A few months later, on May 5, he reached the top through a partially new route with Kammerlander and Michl Dacher.

Annapurna

In 1985, Messner ended in Annapurna. Using a new route on the northwest face, he reached the top with Kammerlander on April 24th. Also on the expedition were Reinhard Patscheider, Reinhard Schiestl and Swami Prem Darshano, who did not reach the top. Even as Messner and Kammerlander climbed, the weather was not good and they had to be helped by the other three as they descended from heavy snow.

Dhaulagiri

Messner had tried Dhaulagiri in 1977 and 1984, but failed. In 1985, he finally made it to the top. He climbed with Kammerlander up a normal route along the northeastern ridge. After just three days of climbing they stood on top in a massive storm on May 15th.

Makalu

Messner tried four times to climb Makalu. It failed in 1974 and 1981 in the South Face of the south-east ridge. In the winter of 1985/1986 he tried the first winter climb in Makalu via a normal route. Even this effort did not work. Not until February 2009 was Makalu managed to ride in the winter by Denis Urubko and Simone Moro.

In 1986, Messner returned and made it to the top with a normal route with Kammerlander and Mutschlechner. Although they have returned twice during this expedition, they made a summit on the third attempt on 26 September. During this expedition, Messner witnessed the death of Marcel RÃÆ'¼edi, to whom Makalu is his eighth-fertility to-8. RÃÆ'¼edi is on his way back from the summit and seen by Messner and the other climbers on the way down. Although he made slow progress, he seemed safe. Tea for its reception was boiled when RÃÆ'¼edi disappeared behind the snow ridge and did not reappear. He was found dead moments later.

Lhotse

Messner climbed his last normal route. Both climbers must compete with strong winds in the peak area. To reach the peak of that year and before winter arrives, they take a helicopter flight straight from Makalu base camp to Lhotse base camp.

So Messner became the first person to climb eight thousand people. Since this ascent, Messner has never climbed another eight-thousander. In 1989, Messner led the European expedition to the Southern Face of the mountain. The purpose of the expedition is to forge a path to a face that has not been conquered. Messner himself did not want to climb anymore. The expedition did not work.

Another expedition after 1970

• 1971 - Journey to the Persian mountains, Nepal, New Guinea, Pakistan and East Africa;
• 1972 - Noshak ( 7,492 m ) in Hindu Kush;
• 1973 - West Marmolada Pillar, first ascent; Furchetta West Face, first climb;
• 1974 Ã, - Aconcagua south wall ( 6,959 m ), partly new "South Tyrol Route"; Eiger North Face with Peter Habeler in 10 hours (a record that lasted for 34 years, for roped parties);
• 1976 - Mount McKinley ( 6,193 m ), "Midnight Sun Face", first ascent;
• 1978 Ã, - Kilimanjaro ( 5,895Ã, m ), "Breach Wall", first ascent;
• 1979 - Efforts to rescue Ama Dablam; first climb in the Hoggar Mountains, Africa;
• 1981Ã, - Chamlang ( 7,317Ã, m ) Center Summit-North Face, first ascent;
• 1984 - Crossed Double Gasherbrum II and me with Hans Kammerlander;
• 1985Ã, - Tibet Transversale with Kailash exploration;
• 1986Ã, - East Tibet Intersection; Mount Vinson ( 4,897 m , Antarctica), on December 3, 1986, making it the first person to complete the Seven Summits without the use of supplemental oxygen in Mount Everest;
• 1987Ã, - the journey of Bhutan; Travel Pamir;
• 1988Ã, - Yeti-Tibet solo expedition;
• 1989-1990Ã, - Antarctic Cross (above the South Pole) on foot, a 2,800 km journey with Arved Fuchs;
• 1991Ã, - the intersection of Bhutan (east-west); "Around South Tyrol" as a positioning exercise, in which he was peripherally involved in the ÃÆ'-tzi findings, was among the groups examining the mummies on the spot the day after his initial discovery;
• 1992 - Climbing Chimborazo ( 6,310 m ); cross the Taklamakan Desert in Xinjiang
• 1993 - Journey to Dolpo, Mustang and Manang in Nepal; Greenland longitudinal crossing (diagonal) by foot, 2,200 km journey;
• 1994Ã, - Cleaning project in North India/Gangotri, Shivling area ( 6,543 m ); to Ruwenzori ( 5.119Ã, m ), Uganda;
• 1995 - Arctic cross (Siberia to Canada) fails; travel to Belukha ( 4,506 m ), Altai Mountains/Siberia;
• 1996 - Journey through East Tibet and to Kailash.
• 1997 - Journey to Kham (East Tibet); a small expedition to Karakoram; filming at Ol Doinyo Lengai (sacred mountain Massai) in Tanzania
• 1998 Ã, - Travel to the Altai Mountains (Mongolia) and to Puna de Atacama (Andes)
• 1999 - Film Making: San Francisco Peaks, Arizona (Holy Mountain Navajo); trip to the Thar/India Desert
• 2000 - Cross South Georgia on the Shackleton Route; Nanga Parbat Expedition; filming on Mount Fuji/Japan for the ZDF series Wohnungen der GÃÆ'¶tter (~ "House of the Gods")
• 2001 Ã, - Dharamsala and the foothills of the Himalayas/India; ZDF Series Wohnungen der GÃÆ'¶tter at Gunung Agung/Bali
• 2002 - In the "International Year of the Mountains" visited by mountaineers to the Andes and ascent Cotopaxi ( 5,897 m ), Ecuador
• 2003Ã, - Trekking to Mount Everest (the first fifty successful ascent memorial); trip to Franz Joseph Land/Arctic; on October 1st opening of "GÃÆ'¼nther Mountain School" in Diamir Valley in Nanga Parbat/Pakistan
• 2004 - Longitudinal Crossing of the Gobi Desert (Mongolia) on foot, about 2,000 km journey
• 2005Ã, - Travel to Dyva Nomads in Mongolia; "time travel" around Nanga Parbat/Pakistan

The Seven Summits

In 1985 Richard Bass first postulated and achieved the challenge of climbing the Seven Summits, climbing the highest peaks of each of the seven continents. Messner suggests other lists (list Messner or Carstensz ) replace Mount Kosciuszko with Puncak Jaya in Indonesia, or Carstensz Pyramid (4,884 m or 16,024Ã, ft). From the point of climbing the list of Messner is the more challenging. Climbing Carstensz Pyramid has an expedition character, while climbing Kosciuszko is an easy climb. In May 1986 Pat Morrow became the first to complete the Messner list, followed by Messner himself when he summarized Mount Vinson in December 1986 to become second.

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Guinness Book of Records

Messner is listed 9 times in the Guinness Book of Records. All of these records belong to the category "World's Firsts", also known as Historical Firsts. "World's First" is the highest form of Guinness World Record, possession of this never ending title. By 2018, this is the highest number of "World's Firsts" in the world held by an individual.

• The first ascent of Manaslu without additional oxygen
• Everest's first solo peak
• The first ascent of Everest and K2 without additional oxygen - men
• The first ascent of the three highest mountains without supplemental oxygen - the man
• First hat-trick mount 8.000 m
• The first person to climb all 8,000 m mountains without additional oxygen
• The first person to climb 8,000 m mountains
• Everest First Ascent without additional oxygen
• First Ascent Gasherbrum I without additional oxygen

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The Messner Mountain Museum

In 2003 Messner began working on a project for a mountain climbing museum. On June 11, 2006, the Messner Mountain Museum (MMM) opened, a museum that unites in a museum of stories about the growth and decline of the mountain, the culture of the Himalayas and the history of South Tyrol.

MMM consists of five locations:

• The MMM company in Sigmundskron Castle near Bozen is central to the museum and concentrates on human relationships with the mountains. Surrounded by peaks from Schlern and Texel, the MMM Firmian provides visitors with a series of paths, stairways and towers with displays focusing on mountain geology, the meaning of mountain religion in people's lives, and the history of mountain and alpine climbing. The so-called white tower is dedicated to the history of the village and the struggle for the independence of South Tyrol.
• The Juval MMM at Juval Castle in Burggrafenamt in Vinschgau is dedicated to "mountain miracles", with an emphasis on mystical mountains, such as Mount Kailash or Ayers Rock and their religious significance. MMM Juval has several art collections.
• The Dolomites MMM, known as the Museum in the Cloud, is located on Monte Rite (2181 m) between Pieve di Cadore and Cortina d'Ampezzo. Housed in an old fort, the museum is dedicated to the subject of rocks, especially in the Dolomites, with exhibits focusing on the history of the formation of the Dolomites. The peak observation platform offers a 360 ° panoramic view of the surrounding Dolomites, with views towards Monte Schiara, Monte AgnÃÆ'¨r, Monte Civetta, Marmolata, Monte Pelmo, Tofana di Rozes, Sorapis, Antelao, Marmarole.
• The Ortles MMM in Sulden on Ortler is dedicated to the ice theme. This underground structure lies at 1900 meters and focuses on the history of mountain climbing on the ice and the great glaciers of the world. The museum contains the largest collection of Ortler paintings in the world, as well as ice climbing equipment from two centuries.
• The Ripa MMM at Brunico Castle in South Tyrol is dedicated to mountain communities from Asia, Africa, South America and Europe, with an emphasis on their culture, religion, and tourism activities.
• The MMM Corones, opened in July 2015 at the top of the Kronplatz mountain ( Plan de Corones in Italian), is dedicated to traditional climbing.

src: en.es-static.us

Politics

Source of the article : Wikipedia